“In the Footsteps of Jewish Italy”
Travel Flashback: Basel–Bergamo–Ferrara–Venice and Back
Inspired by history and filled with joy, 15 participants recently returned from a long-planned trip to “Bella Italia.” “Bella” because everything was harmonious and organized down to the smallest detail. The inviting landscapes of Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna, the vast, deep-green rice fields of the Po Valley, the immense lagoon landscape around Venice, as well as the fine food, the encounters and exchanges with Jewish people, and the guided tours through a variety of synagogues were all impressive and enriching. “Bella” also, as we realized, because Italy has been a “safe” haven for persecuted and displaced Jews from all over Europe since the Middle Ages. For example, they found protection under the d’Este noble family in Ferrara. Under their rule, they were able to pursue their professions and practice their religion in relative freedom.
But let’s start from the very beginning: The SBB took us quickly and on time from Basel to Lugano, where a tour bus was already waiting to take us on to Bergamo. There, we were welcomed to a meeting with lunch hosted by Eva, the chairwoman of the small progressive Jewish community “Har Sinai.” A lively discussion ensued, followed by an invitation to Migwan.
After saying our goodbyes, we continued on to Ferrara, a major Renaissance city in Emilia-Romagna, known for its imposing castle, the symbol of the d’Este noble family, which ruled the region from 1264 to 1597. The facade of the synagogue(s) bears a commemorative plaque. Under expert guidance, we climbed the stairs to the interiors of the Scola Tedesco (German Synagogue) from 1603, the Scola Italiano from 1485 (Italian Synagogue), and the Spanish Synagogue from 1548. The atmosphere here was truly overwhelming, so much so that Bracha and Orah spontaneously sang the song Shir ha Shirim in the finest soprano. The area of the ancient “Ghetto,” established in the 17th century, stretches across three streets, where the intense life of the former ghetto once pulsed in the courtyards, secret passageways, and evocative balconies.
But what would Ferrara be without a mention of Giorgio Bassani, the author who wrote the novel on which the film *The Garden of the Finzi-Continis* (1970) was based? Under Mussolini’s fascist regime, Ferrara was ravaged in the 1940s, and here, too, nearly 200 Jews were stripped of their rights, deported, and sent to their deaths.
Judith Wipfler, as always impeccably prepared in terms of historical knowledge, once again brought the history to life for us and then showed us this famous and moving film.
Giorgio Bassani chose to be laid to rest in the back row of the Jewish cemetery, near the city wall, where an unusual metal stele stands.
Another item on the agenda included a visit to the National Museum of Italian Jewry and the Shoah, a modern complex currently under construction on the site of a former prison and which is only partially open to the public.
On the third day, the bus finally took us to Venice. As on all our trips, we were treated to short, travel-related talks and Jewish music
Masters who hailed from this region are enjoying the view, which further enhances the beauty of the landscape. "Chapeau" to Sybille and Judith for their perfectly planned itinerary.
A welcome detour took us to the quiet lagoon town of Comacchio, which lives up to its reputation as “Little Venice” and boasts a well-curated Renaissance-style museum. There, visitors can marvel at the remains of a merchant ship that became stuck in the lagoon mud, preserving its entire cargo—from wine and oil amphorae to personal belongings—almost intact.
The grand finale, however, was to be Venice, with its Jewish ghetto and its five magnificent synagogues, only three of which were accessible due to structural reasons. Unlike the ghettos of the Nazi era, this one resembles more of a small village with squares, trees, restaurants, and small shops. Here and there, you see men wearing kippahs, tallits, and tefillin. We were treated to a delicious lunch at the kosher restaurant “Ba Ghetto.”
The ghetto was established in 1516 by a decree of the Senate of the Republic of Venice, the first of its kind. Two more were added in 1541 and in the 17th century as additional groups moved in. In addition to the Ashkenazi, Sephardic Jews from Spain and Portugal, as well as those from the Levant (eastern Mediterranean), later settled there. In 1797, Napoleon opened the gates of the ghetto, thereby ending the compulsory residence and nighttime curfew for the Jews living there and granting them civil rights. Led by a German-speaking synagogue guide, we visited the synagogues of the Italian, Sephardic, and Levantine Jews. The Jewish community of Venice today comprises approximately 450 members, of whom only 17 families still live in the original ghetto.
Our last stop was the Jewish cemetery on the Lido di Venezia, which we reached by vaporetto.
A quick tip: If you love beautiful Judaica made of Murano glass, “DAVID,” right on the main square, is the place to go.
Finally, we would like to thank Sybille Benz-Hübner (specialist in historical tours) for her thoughtful and professional organization. We appreciate her excellent choice of hotels and meals (always taking food intolerances into account!) and her consistently detailed information.
To Dr. h.c. Judith Wipfler (SRF religion expert), for her historical segments—always in the right place at the right time—as well as her entertaining poetry readings and musical selections.
To Orah Mendelberg (Migwan Cultural Representative), bridge-builder and co-organizer.
Orah Mendelberg and Cornelia Kempke